No visit to Paraty is complete without a trip around its beautiful bay, surrounded by mountains thickly clothed in the tropical vegetation of the Atlantic rainforest, where the discreet homes of millionaires and fishermen are strung along the water’s edge, accessible only by boat. Amongst them is Casa Cairuçu, a fully catered ‘house hotel’ owned by Anglo-Brazilian couple Simon and Fabiola, and perfect for friends or families. Sleeping up to eight, it makes a magical alternative to staying in town. Take to the water on a paddle board or a kayak, stroll to the nearby beach bar or explore the bay and islands, stopping for a beach barbecue. Or simply swing in a hammock on the balcony, caipirinha in hand, drinking in the bewitching view, watching for dolphins and listening to the birds and the cicadas in the trees.