Eating and drinking
Eating and drinking are among the most appealing aspects of a trip to Paraty. Cafes, bars and restaurants in the town stay open late into the night, and eateries run the gamut from simple snack bars to smart wine bars and formal restaurants. Predictably, given the coastal location, seafood is a standout on the culinary scene, but there’s plenty here to keep veggie visitors happy as well. There’s some tempting street food to try, too.
Burgers come with some serious trimmings, and tapioca (pancakes made with manioc flour) come stuffed with sweet or savory fillings, or you could try ‘Romeo and Juliet’ – a sweet/savory combination of sweet guava jelly and salty white cheese.
It’s rare to find a bar that doesn’t serve food, and most places will offer a good array of petiscos (bar snacks) while street stalls selling caipifrutas (cocktails made with vodka or sugar cane rum and your choice of fresh fruit) cater to those who want to see the sights as they sip their drink.
Banana da terra
A long-time standout on Paraty’s dining scene, this high-end but informal restaurant has made a name for its creative use of locally-sourced ingredients. Fish and seafood dishes are standouts, but there’s usually a veggie option, too. Good wine list, and excellent caipifrutas made with locally-produced cachaca.
Address: Rua Dr Samuel Costa 198
Opening Hours: Fri-Sun noon-4pm
7pm-midnight. Mon, Wed, Thu 6pm- midnight (closed Tue)
Pizzeria da Cidade
This relaxed Italian has a plum
location in the historic centre, and the pizzas are top notch. The ambience is relaxed, staff are friendly and attentive, and there’s a decent wine list. Brazilian pizza often disappoints, but these wood-fired creations always hit the mark.
Rua do Comercio 40, Centro, Historico.
Opening hours: Tue-Thu 6pm-11.30pm, Fri 6pm-midnight
Sat 3pm-1am, Sun 3-11pm
A popular Italian in the historic centre, this restaurant scores major points
for its friendly service and creative salads and sides as well as its excellent seafood dishes and pizzas. During the summer, there’s live music in the restaurant’s covered garden.
Address: Rua da Matriz 129, Centro Historico, Paraty
Café do Canal
A lovely 15 minute walk along the river canal heading inland this Italian restaurant is popular with locals and has excellent wood oven pizzas as well as plenty of other dishes.
Address: Av. Octavio Gama (ex-Beira- Rio), 709, Cabôre
Well thought of restaurant on Rua doComercio, 308A
(en route to Café do Canal, next to
Pousada Villas de Paraty)
Micro brewery overlooking the river with very good beer (2 types, dark and clear), and good food also to wash down with the beer.
Touristy it may be but a proven success in Paraty. Colourful, well decorated and good fun with a wide range of tasty food and drinks. Website
Clandestino Street Food
Trendy riverside burger food truck with a lovely location and a chilled atmosphere.
Address: Areal de Pontal, Beiro Rio, Paraty Opening hours Fri-Sun 8pm-1am
Delicious fruit cocktails and hangover- curing bowls of acai are firm favorites with punters at this chilled spot just outside the historic centre. Local musicians play & Burgers – both meat and vegetarian – are the main stars of the food menu, alongside tapioca and other Brazilian specialities.
There’s a party vibe, with live music after dark.
Address: Rua Joao Luis do Rosario 172, Paraty Opening hours: Mon-Sat 3pm- 11am
Handy for the bus station, this colorfully-decorated little Turkish spot in Paraty’s ‘new town’ serves delicious small plates at very fair prices. The falafel, babaganoush, hummous and meat kebabs will all satisfy a hankering for Middle Eastern flavours.
Address: Rua Manoel Torres Opening hours: Mon-Sat 9am-10pm